MUSHTAQ HURRA
Every Kashmiri kitchen is depository to condiments, spices, aromas and flavours. Veg and non-veg cuisines run parallel to each other, however, veg dishes tend to dominate our dining tables, because vegetables are more affordable, readily available, economical and easier to manage than non-veg dishes. Although their prices witness a steep surge during the peak winter months, yet the vegetable aromas imbue the kitchens of common Kashmiris frequently. Delicacies of Wazwan and winter special Hareesa make our taste buds secrete abundant amounts of saliva, yet, veggies of discrete colours and tastes are inseparable part of our culinary system. Proximity with vegetables grown organically has been the secret of longevity and good health of our ancestors.
Non-veg cuisines entice food lovers to include them in their daily eating schedules, but, the veg dishes remain staple in most of our households. Even sun-dried vegetables make up for the dearth of fresh greens during the chilly winter days. The exotic dainties have become a symbol of our civilization and heritage. The facades of markets selling the sun-dried veggies proclaim the glory of a culture that is known for its illustrious past. Shop fronts laden with the dried dainties paint the old Srinagar city markets antique. I won’t exaggerate to call Al-Hachi ( Sun-dried Bottle Gourd ) as the emblem of our cultural identity.
Kashmiris undoubtedly consume substantial amounts of mutton, beef, chicken and fish; but our middle and lower middle class people prefer veg dishes to make both ends meet easily. The veg trend is gaining momentum during the contemporary times, because health experts and medicos prompt people to consume more and more greens, vegetables and pulses ; instead of meat and other nonveg foods. Prosperity is probably attributed to vegetables rather than meat and fish. Kashmiri phrase “ Haakh Batte “ is the benchmark of a prosperous and contented life. When someone is advised to spend judiciously, he is told to stick to vegetables. Even modern healthcare experts stress upon the frequent and considerable consumption of vegetables and legumes, given their wide range of health benefits. Different fresh and sun-dried vegetables including legumes are cherished in our part of the globe.
Though Haakh ( Collard/Greens ) paints our cooking pots frequently green, yet it is not the most loved one of Kashmiris. Nelumbo Nucifera, commonly known as Nadur is most probably the crown of our vegetable clan. Nadru is a perennial aquatic veggie, found in the different lakes of Kashmir valley. The veggie is believed to have been discovered by Bud-Shah the great, in fifteenth century, when he along with his courtiers was exploring the bewitching beauty of Gilsar. Since then, the vegetable has been ruling our culinary. Even a blend of Nadru and Spinach has become an integral part of multi-course non-veg feast of Kashmir called Wazwan. Major producers of the aquatic delicacy are Dal, Mansbal, Wular and Aanchar lake. Nadru of Dal lake is admired and loved by all for its delectable taste. Our Pandit brethren consume it very fondly. They associate it with the Goddess Lakshmi – The deity of wealth and prosperity. Both Muslims and Hindus of Kashmir never forget to prepare Nadru cuisine on their festive occassions.
Extraction of Nadru is not lesser than an adventure. Tubers of the plant are removed from deep water inside the bottom of the major lakes of our valley. Harvest of Nadru is a laborious and arduous task, particularly during winter and late autumn. Many valiants jump into the freezing waters to uproot the tubers from the swampy bottoms of different lakes and ponds. Usually, a special long and thin wooden pole called “ Shum “ is used to pluck out the tuberous plants below the water. A metallic fork like tool is tied to the one end of the Shum that uproots the plants. Taste, flavour and its difficult removal procedure makes it an expensive veggie. People prefer it with fish during winters. Even its Yakhni is most often prepared in kashmiri kitchens. Its crispy flavour makes it the most liked street snack of Kashmir. I mean Nader Munji are widely found in every nook and corner of the valley. Nadru slices dipped in spicy batter are deep fried in simmering oil. People fondly enjoy its bites to keep their bodies warm.
Nadru has crossed the frontiers of our eateries and cuisines. It has sneaked into our lingo and culture. Though Kashmiri poets have not popularised it through their works, yet It is attributed to our daily conversations. Many kashmiri phrases are deeply etched to the plant. Nader Phulai ( Lotus Bloom ) is often equated with prosperity, purity, resilience and spirituality, because Nadru grows from slime and mud, when someone grows in terms of economy, he is said to have been enjoying Nader Phulai ( Lotus Bloom ). If someone is tall, lanky and thin, he/she is called a ‘ Nadur ‘. Yuhai Nadur Hue Chhukh ( You are like a lotus stem ) is a common Kashmiri phrase when someone is ridiculed for being very thin and tall.
But, the aquatic delicacy is under tremendous threat. Sewage inlets leading to our major lakes viz Dal, Wular and Mansbal must be stopped. Polythene and other deadly toxins released into the perennial lakes put the aquatic flora and fauna at stake. People at the helm and commoners must take every possible measure to safeguard the delicate veggie from the constant perils. Besides its rich flavour and cultural significance, it is a source of earning and livelihood to thousands of households. Let’s not be cruel and callous to snatch the sustenance of the poor. We all must join hands to conserve our traditions, customs and heritage.
The Author is a Teacher and a Regular Columnist from Bandipora, writing regularly on culture, climate, history, education, folklore and social issues. He can be reached at mushtaqhurra143@gmail.com
