Syed Nissar H. Gilani
Srinagar city was chosen as the capital city of greater Kashmir by our learned rulers centuries ago. Though the capital initially sat at Parihaspora near Pattan—perhaps chosen for its strategic elevation and proximity to the River Jhelum—it was later discarded. There were even subsequent attempts to make Srinagar a last choice, favoring places like Pampore.
Pampore might well have been proper for its elevation and its close connection, once again, to the Jhelum; a city built there would have never faced the threat of floods. Yet, somehow, Srinagar took deep root among the thinkers of the time. They ultimately chose to locate the capital here, undoubtedly the most beautiful spot in the valley, blessed with its intricate water channels, serene lakes, and the Jhelum running like a life-giving artery through its very heart.
But a capital is more than just its geography or the grand designs of its rulers; it is defined by the character of its people. If Srinagar is the beating heart of the valley, then Nowhatta has long been the crucible where its leadership, faith, and intellect were forged.
Born just less than half a kilometer away from Nowhatta, I grew up in the immediate contours of an area that can only be described as a launching pad for Kashmir’s finest minds. For over half a century, I have watched this historic neighborhood serve as a dense, thriving hub that consistently produced eminent scholars, visionary politicians, revered peers, and astute administrators who went on to shape the destiny of the region. This deep intellectual soil runs so wide that, according to local historians and learned scholars, even the forefathers of the world-renowned novelist Salman Rushdie trace their roots back to the old quarters of Nowhatta.
At the literal and spiritual center of this neighborhood stands the grand Jamia Masjid. Commissioned in 1394 CE by Sultan Sikandar and completed under the profound influence of Mir Mohammad Hamadani, its majestic Indo-Saracenic wooden architecture and 378 soaring deodar pillars have looked over generations of seekers. It was never merely a place of worship; it was a premier institution of Islamic education and a vibrant forum for community discourse.
The soil of Nowhatta is also sanctified by the blood of martyrs and the presence of great mystics who refused to compromise their convictions. Among them was Qazi Musa Al-Sayyid (Qazi Musa Shaheed), the courageous jurist who was martyred during the Chak rule for steadfastly refusing to alter the established religious principles under state pressure. His final resting place near Shampora (Malkha), Nowhatta, stands as an eternal monument to principle and courage. The area’s profound spiritual depth was further illuminated by Peer Syed Hairat Kamali, a figure of immense spiritual acumen. He famously headed the seat of highest learning at Pandan, Nowhatta, serving as a guiding light for religious scholarship and esoteric wisdom in the valley.
Gazing recently at a photograph taken in March 2012 on the Kashmir University campus—standing alongside my dear friend and well-wisher, the noted writer Zahid Ghulam Mohammad, outside an event at Gandhi Bhavan—a flood of nostalgia rushed back, making me relive the past. It felt as if I were sitting in front of a bioscope, watching the vivid scenes of old Nowhatta shift and come alive once more.
Zahid, a few years my junior, is the younger brother of my contemporary, Mohd Yousuf, who was renowned in our youth for his impeccable dress sense. In those days, I would occasionally visit their residence near Nowhatta Chowk. This neighborhood was the proud home of many highly respected and prominent families—the Punjabis, Daryals, Lals, Kawoosas, Kamilis, Pirs, Shahs, Fazillis, Hakeems, Qurashis, and many others who formed the dignified aristocracy of the area.
These households produced an extraordinary constellation of distinguished personalities. Among them was the late Abdul Gani Fazilli, brother of Dr. A. M. Jan—remembered reverently as the ‘Luqman of Kashmir.’ There was the late Hakim Ali Mohammad, father of the late Hakim Tahir, and Hakim M. Amin, who was one of our finest and most resonant broadcasters. We also remember Hakim Manzoor, a reputed poet and skilled administrator, and Mufti Jalal-ud-Din, a brilliant mathematician who served with distinction as the Principal of Islamia High School in Srinagar.
The academic and creative contributions of this neighborhood spread far and wide. From these lanes came Professor Tayoub Shah Kamali, and the late M. Shafi Bhat Punjabi of the famous Glamour Arts, who happened to be the brother of the late Bashir Bhat—himself a former Deputy Director of Srinagar TV and an excellent broadcaster. I think fondly of my dear friend Akram Punjabi, who is now settled in the UAE, and Khurshaid Wani alongside his father-in-law, Abdul Gani, affectionately known as ‘Sesha.’ There was also my father’s close friend, Khwaja Abdul Samad Surmma.
The neighborhood was also an administrative and judicial powerhouse. It gave us the remarkable father-and-son duo who both served as Deputy Commissioners: Syed Mohammad Amin Andrabi and his son, Syed Yasin Andrabi. We remember Pir Mantaqi Shah, a deeply devout follower of Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah. From the prominent Kawoosa family, we witnessed the brilliant Justice M. Yasin Kawoosa steadily ascending the ladder of the judiciary to the highest echelons of justice. We also remember a proud son of the soil, G. R. Sofi, who qualified for the Indian Revenue Service (IRS) and was likely the first and only one from the area to clear those prestigious elite services. In academia, we lost the brilliant Professor Dr. M. Amin Andrabi, the former Director of Iqbaliat at Kashmir University, who passed away entirely too young at the age of 62 in 2002. From the same deep well of talent came Dr. Abdul Wahid, another exceptionally brilliant medico, a wonderful friend, and a lifelong well-wisher, alongside Professor Ali Mohammed Peerzada ,his elder brother Peerzada G.Hussan the former Registrar of kashmir university and a host of other notable persons whose names would take an entire volume to complete.
Nowhatta Chowk itself was a magnificent melting pot of daily Kashmiri life and a bustling transport hub where we would congregate while waiting for buses. It was a symphony of local activity: vibrant ladies from Hazratbal selling fresh fruits and fish, textile shops doing brisk business, and university students passing through. The streets offered unforgettable sights—from a young Dr. Farooq Abdullah zipping by on his Vespa scooter, to the English wife of a local trader elegantly navigating a Fiat, and an eccentric elderly gentleman affectionately nicknamed “Uoos Kiskiss” riding past on his moped.
The Chowk was also a natural assembly point for the area’s distinguished medical and academic elite. On any given afternoon, one could spot luminaries like Dr. Qayoom Fazili, Dr. Yusuf Fazili, Dr. Kojawal, and Dr. M.S. Mehenghar. It was here that I would also see Prof. M. S. Want, the renowned Professor of English who had been educated in the United Kingdom. A close friend of my father’s, he would stand waiting for the university bus, balancing his immense academic stature with his role as the Halqa President of the National Conference, inspiring generations of local youth including Dr.Allaqaband the famous physician to enter noble fields like medicine.
As evening fell, the atmosphere around Zahid’s old residence would beautifully transform. The air would fill with the rich aroma of Wazwan and barbecued mutton from the shop of Ghulam Rasool, popularly known to everyone as “Lassi Waza.” Directly opposite him sat Ab Rehman, a smart, wonderfully witty mutton dealer who would regularly regale us with his sharp stories.
Yet, the tapestry of Nowhatta was woven with humor and poignant human journeys just as much as it was with high intellect. Among our circle of common friends at the Chowk was Abdul Rashid Tichoo. In our youth, he was simply a jolly fellow who filled our days with laughter. I still vividly remember the day before one Eid, when Tichoo proudly squeezed into a pair of brand-new, impossibly tight trousers from Deen Tailors. The fit was so uncompromising that the pants could not be removed for an entire week, until he finally had to march down to the tailor’s shop in Malaratta to be literally scissored out of his own finery! In later years, Tichoo’s path took a more serious turn; he stepped into politics, contesting the assembly elections. Life also dealt him a devastating blow when his son tragically passed away in a road accident in the UAE. In a beautiful, enduring act of devotion and memory, Tichoo later constructed a magnificent mosque in honor of his late son.
In the shadow of Hari Parbat and surrounded by sacred spaces like the Ziyarat of Naqshband Sahab and Makhdoom Sahab, Dastgeer sahab Nowhatta became a natural sanctuary for both the intellect and the soul. Every alleyway (koocha) here has a story, and virtually every traditional house has been home to a jurist, a community elder, or a scholar. From the spiritual leadership of the Mirwaiz family to the lively characters of the marketplace, Nowhatta has always held the pulse of the valley. As I look back on these bygone days, I wish Zahid Ghulam Mohammad the very best, and pray that the souls of our departed friends rest in eternal peace. I hope and pray that the glorious legacy of Nowhatta continues to serve the people of Kashmir to its absolute best, shining as brightly into the future as it always has in the past.
The author is a former civil servant from the administrative service. He can be reached via email at nisargilani57748@gmail.com
