By Tousif Raza
Pheran has come back after being denied by the skimpy models on the ramps of top fashion shows. In the hands of hot-selling countries and cosmopolitan cities, it once became a fashion statement. The phen had a lowly presence in the wardrobe of Kashmiri women, but it is slowly regaining its cultural preeminence. Men have by and large clung to its cosy comfort during winters, and its all-embracing expanse is no exception. This Kashmiri garment has a long history, with some tracing the origin of Pheran to the early centuries of the Christian era.
Few sculptures and coins dated to the Kushan period have also carried similar dress features. Most scholars view it as a later development. Dates apart, the tradition of wearing phoran in this land is centuries old. In earlier periods, it was used in the winter, but later it became the fashion of the day for the entire year, particularly for women. Pheran made of wool were used in the winter, while in the summer Pheran were made of cotton. Although men hardly wear it in summer, Kashmiri women have a tradition of wearing it throughout the year. The looseness of the garment went well with the orthodox culture of the valley. They used to wear Pheran, which covered their heads sometimes with “pooch” (a Kashmiri translational scarf) and some time with kasaaba (a Kashmiri traditional hijab). Kasaaba was especially for elderly ladies; they used to wear it while going outside. The traditional hijab, kasaaba, was considered a burqa as well.
With the onslaught of western and Punjabi cultures, Pheran took a back seat. Women all over the valley became fashion conscious and tried to adopt western dresses as their usual wearing attire. Through this variation in dress, Pheran lost its appeal. The ultra-modern fashion show promoted women to follow the order of the day. She had even no objection to wearing transparent clothes, and she did so with full confidence.
Almost all the people neglected the tradition and went on to promote non-Kashmiri dresses; society began to ape the upwardly mobile fashionable class. History is a witness to the fact that the Pherans, Central Asians, and then European missionaries made no less efforts in promoting art, education, and technology in Kashmir. Several arts, crafts, and other institutions bear witness to the fact.
During the period of British residency, several missionary institutions and hospitals were set up in the valley. These institutions promoted education and medical facilities for us; what we copied was only the style and dress. Fortunately, in the last few years there has been a revival of translational research. Mention may be made of Kashmiri phenan. It is not out of nostalgia but an overwhelming call to the culture moulded by God knows how many natural and artificial forces—weather, poverty, taste, influence, and the like. International Pheran Day had a message for all of us who believe in traditional dress. If you are really eager to upgrade your self-existence, develop the character of a real Kashmiri, and listen, our classical dress like Pheran is not less impressive and attractive.
