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Home Weekly Cover Story

Red Gold in Peril

Kashmir Pen by Kashmir Pen
1 year ago
in Cover Story, Weekly
Reading Time: 4 mins read
Red Gold in Peril
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Kashmir’s saffron cultivation is grappling with sustainability and livelihood issues owing to rising global temperatures, erratic weather patterns, unseasonable warmth, and diminishing snowfall disrupt the delicate balance required for saffron.

The Himalayan region is the largest saffron-producing area in South Asia, second only to Iran. In Kashmir, saffron cultivation is concentrated in three districts: Budgam, Pulwama, and Srinagar. Over thirty thousand families in the valley rely on this spice for their livelihoods, making it crucial to the region’s economy.
Farmers in the region begin sowing saffron seeds, also known as corms, in September. The crop thrives on elevated land surrounded by water channels that regulate moisture levels without flooding. By October, the saffron flowers start blooming, with the peak typically occurring between October 20 and November 1. Farmers collect these delicate flowers and store them carefully to prevent spoilage.
Kashmiri saffron stands out in the market due to their meticulous hand-production, which is believed to contribute to its superior quality. This quality difference is reflected in its higher market price — saffron today costs 2.50 lakh per kilo (250 rupees per gram). “Kashmiri saffron costs fifty thousand rupees more as compared to Iranian saffron because it is strictly adhered to organic farming practices without any use of fertilizers.
Kashmiri saffron is known for its exceptional flavour profile and sweetness. It boasts an impressive crocin content of 8%, surpassing the 6.82% typically found in Iranian saffron. This distinctiveness has firmly established Kashmiri saffron as a sought-after premium product valued for its rich aroma, medicinal properties, and its ability to transform dishes.
Saffron holds a revered place in culinary traditions around the world. In the heart of Kashmiri cuisine, saffron weaves its magic into traditional dishes, making them incomplete in its absence. Saffron’s unique ability to enhance both sweet and savoury dishes with its delicate and refined essence is what makes it so special.
Take rogan josh, for instance. This signature dish of the Kashmiri Wazwan is a rich and aromatic lamb curry, where saffron is the star. It elevates the dish, imparting a luxurious flavour and a vibrant red colour. Then there is the Kashmiri pulao, which has basmati rice, cooked with an array of nuts, dried fruits, and saffron-infused water. For dessert, nothing beats kesar phirni, a luscious rice pudding flavoured with saffron, cardamom, and almonds. To complete the experience, a cup of Kashmiri kahwa is key. This fragrant, warming green tea, made with whole spices, saffron, and nuts like almonds and walnuts, is a perfect beverage in Kashmir’s cold climate.
Over the last few years, the changing weather patterns took a toll on the saffron production in the region. According to official data, the saffron production declined by 65 per cent in the last two decades while the land used for the spice cultivation shrank from 5,707 hectares in 1996-97 to 2,387.1 hectares in 2019-2020.
However, in 2023, the government approved a project worth 146 crore for the promotion of niche crops as part of Jammu and Kashmir distinctive agriculture heritage under the Holistic Agriculture Development Program. According to the Director Agriculture, 290 hectares of land is to be brought under saffron cultivation.
Rising global temperatures, erratic weather patterns, unseasonable warmth, and diminishing snowfall disrupt the delicate balance required for saffron cultivation.
Farmers who have invested their lives in this aromatic harvest are now facing uncertainty and declining yields, jeopardizing their livelihoods and the cultural legacy of saffron production.
Saffron production, which once reached nearly 17 tons annually, has now stabilized at around 15 tons.
However, the technology and research being done by the Advanced Research Centre for Saffron and Seed Spices in Pampore district—the only saffron research centre in India— is continuously engaged in increasing the production of the crop.
Due to changing weather patterns, the research centre has developed an irrigation schedule for saffron farmers. This schedule, detailing when and how much irrigation the crop requires, has been shared with the Department of Agriculture. The research centre has provided comprehensive guidance covering all aspects of saffron cultivation, from land preparation and seed sowing to intercultural operations, harvesting, and post-harvest management, which is now accessible to our farmers.
Saffron seeds are ideally sown in late July, with the crucial condition that the soil remains moist but not waterlogged. The flowers typically begin to bloom between October 10 and 15, and harvesting occurs regularly by November 15. This delicate spice, revered for its rich flavour and vibrant colour, flourishes in the unique climate of the region, cultivated across 3,500 hectares by generations of dedicated growers.
Unfortunately, saffron production has declined in recent years. While India’s demand for saffron reaches nearly 50 tons, we only produce about 10 to 12 tons. To support saffron farmers, the Indian government established a Saffron Park in Pampore in 2014, which became operational in 2020. Over 500 farmers bring their harvests here for testing, drying, and marketing. The facility also provides a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, which helps prevent adulteration and ensures the quality of our saffron.
Global warming has contributed to a decline in saffron crops, with untimely rainfall adversely affecting production. Fortunately, last year saw timely rainfall, allowing the crop to recover to previous levels. With each passing season, the once-reliable rhythms of nature become increasingly unpredictable, casting a shadow over the vibrant fields that have thrived for centuries. The implications extend beyond agriculture; they touch the heart of the community, threatening not only economic stability but also the deep-rooted traditions that bind the farmers to their land.

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