MUSHTAQ HURRA
Winter in Kashmir is always bitterly harsh though it has its own beauties and elegancies. Kashmiris have been devising ways and means to combat the numbing and nipping cold since times immemorial. Our ancestors had their own unique ways to fight the vagaries of icy winters. Clay daubed walls of rooms, wooden ceilings and windows with smaller glass panes, were some architectural patterns of our recent past to face winters here in Kashmir. And bride of winter – I mean Kangdi has been a companion of Kashmiris for centuries together to kill the chill of jarring and frosty winters. But, now, things have considerably changed. Though Kangdi is still there, but rest of the things have changed or have been substituted.
With the material advancement, our architecture has gone modern. Cement plaster has replaced mud plaster on our walls of rooms, reinforced concrete slabs have come up in place of wooden ceilings and our windows are nothing but thin walls of glass. Consequently, winters became more aggressive and bone-chilling, because we helped it to aggravate its intensity and ferociousness. Modern heating gadgets have proven futile because power ( Electricity ) hides to unknown places with the onset of winter. So, the people of my land have been looking for an alternative to beat the heat cruel of winter. And of late, Hamaam is gaining popularity among masses for its effectiveness during winters. It is not a white elephant luxury, I mean middle class section of our society can manage it. Even lower middle class families keep the provision of Hamaam in their future houses. It is undoubtedly safer and better as compared to gas and power heaters.
Origin of Hamaam dates back to Roman civilization. Public baths ( water reservoirs ) were important institutions during the empire. Even Harrapan civilization had a big water reservoir for public convenience. Harappan people would bathe, wash and perform other related things there. Great bath was very popular in Harrapan civilization which was situated in the city of Mohanjo Daro. Then, during medieval times, Islamic rulers patronised the architecture, and it spread to different parts of Asia and Africa, and were popularly known as Turkish baths ( Hot water reservoirs ). The word Hamaam was coined during Ottaman empire. With the expansion of Islamic rule, this pattern of architecture spread to Iran ( Persia ), Asia, India, Egypt and Morocco in Africa. Many old Hamaam buildings still survive partially in many parts of the former Islamic kingdom. And different Hakims in India brought its therapeutic use in vogue. People would throng Hamaams during late autumn and winter to get rid of different ailments. Such Hamaams were situated in our Srinagar city as well.
Well, historians and writers have a general consensus that Hamaam was brought to Kashmir with its Mughal conquest during 16th century, though a few attribute it to the era of Shahmiri king – Sultan Zainul Aabideen, who is popularly known as Buddhah. But, there are no concrete evidences to prove this narrative. In the first place, these royal institution of luxury were solely reserved for nobles and royals. Later, during 19th, the architectural marvel found its place alongside mosques and khanqahas of our valley. Of late, it has spread to far off villages and towns. Now, most of the residential houses are equipped with it. The architectural wonder has a huge potential to provide employment to artisans, labourers, drivers, masons and many others associated with it.
Construction of Hamaam is a bit intricate in nature. Special stone slabs of limestone rocks are hewn by adept and expert sculptors who hack and then chisel these rocks so finely, that they are embellished and smoothened to the extent where one can’t resist sitting on it without flooring and furnishing. Even its real pleasure is enjoyed without any kind of furnishing. Saderkoot area of Bandipora and Khrew area of Pulwama districts produce these stone slabs in abundance. Proficient masons are hired to construct the Hamaams. The floor of Hamaam room is dug deep and a thick layer of boulders is compressed and crammed, using a long handled mallet. Then, a thick layer of plain cement concrete is laid for the erection of short brick pillars to support the hand-hewn stone slabs together. Lime and cement mortars are simultaneously used during the process. Many masons add a thick layer of sand on hollowed surface because sand is believed to be a good conductor of heat.
A big copper tank is fitted above the hearth to heat up the water for ablution, bathing and washing purposes. With the growing engineering techniques and tools, these copper tanks have been modified into steamers which work on electricity as well. Firewood is burnt underneath, and gradually the stone slabs attain the heat,and become pleasantly warm. People sit here with their families, to safeguard themselves from the icy winters. It gives warmth to all, but helps children and elderly people from the thorny clutches of cold.
Hamaams of mosques ( Masjids ) provide shelter and refuge to hapless beggars and travellers. Though mosques in cities and towns are locked after Isha prayers, but villages portray a different picture. The Hamaams become places of public get-togethers during winters. People of different ages, ideologies and sects sit together, here. But, unfortunately, most often, the people here forget the decorum of mosques, and indulge in bizarre political debates and discussions. At times, many people unconsciously resort to backbiting and scandal mongering. And instead of winning the pleasure of Allah SWT, they end up with sinners. They invite the rage and wrath of Allah SWT. They waste their time, spoil their here and hereafter as well. Sitting there could be made fruitful and beautiful, if people will recite the Quran and Hadith, there. Children sitting there could learn a great deal of knowledge and wisdom, if the elders and educated people there will initiate a new and better beginning.
I have some cherished memories associated with the Hamaam of our Masjid. My teacher and my mentor – Moulana Mohammad Suliaman Shah Sahab of Dragmulla Kupwara, who happened to be the then imaam of our Masjid, taught us perfect accent and pronunciation of the holy Quran, fiqah, lessons of wisdom and knowledge from Sheerazi’s Gulistan-Bostan, Rumi’s Mathnavi and other contemporary subjects. I vividly remember, our village had become a centre of attraction for the entire area of Naidkhai, then. Students from different villages would attend our mosque after every Asr Prayer, and would receive lessons on varried subjects. We too can make use of warm Hamaams to impart value based lessons to our children and youth who otherwise sit gossiping in Hamaams for hours together.
The author is a Teacher and a Regular Columnist from Bandipora, writing regularly on culture, climate, history, education, folklore, and social issues. He can be reached at mushtaqhurra143@gmail.com
