Syed Nissar H Gilani
The Yarkand House, a venerable 115-year-old ancestral home nestled in Mallaratta, Srinagar, holds a profound significance for me. It’s a place where childhood memories were etched into its very foundations, a sanctuary of shared laughter and familial bonds. On a recent visit, I reconnected with my cousin, Engineer Syed Junaid Gilani, the Principal of Polytechnic Institute Kupwara, Kashmir. He’s like a son to me, and he, along with his family, is the dedicated guardian of this architectural marvel, meticulously preserving the legacy of our ancestors.
Stepping through its doors is always a journey back in time. I envision an era when three generations of our joint family gathered here, the spacious grounds bustling with life during weddings and countless celebrations. This house isn’t just a structure; it’s a silent witness to our family’s growth and the incredible connections forged within its walls over generations.
The construction of the Yarkand House was a monumental undertaking for its time, costing a substantial Rs 5,000 or more. Imagine the sheer effort: wood logs for the building were transported by boat from Bhorikadal, then painstakingly dragged by rope through the narrow lanes of the Nallah Mar canal to the construction site. This reminds me of the remarkable foresight of my ancestor, Haji Syed Ghulam Mohd Gilani, the Administrator of Yarkand, who had settled in Kashghar (now part of China). Though his influential position and business commitments in Sinkiang and Yarkand allowed him to reside in the house for only a brief period, his vision lives on through this magnificent edifice.
Our family’s history is deeply intertwined with this house, a rich tapestry of fascinating narratives. My great-grandfather, Haji Syed Ghulam Mohammad Gilani, was a truly extraordinary figure. In 1915, he embarked on the sacred Haj pilgrimage with friends and prominent Kashghar functionaries. His journey commenced from our Srinagar home, where he resided for weeks before his departure. He and his companion traversed the Jhelum Valley cart road, bypassing Karachi port, and ventured west through Ottoman territory. British Indian officials had even arranged for their assistants to provide support along the way. My late father recounted how Syed Ghulam Mohammad ingeniously sewed gold coins and cash beneath his upper garments for the journey. After seven months, they safely returned to Yarkand, Kashghar, having traveled through Turkey and other distant lands.
During this period, Sir George Macartney, the British Consul-General to Kashgar and Yarkand, played a significant role in our family’s interactions with the British imperial government. He persuaded Haji Syed Ghulam Mohammad Gilani and his uncle, Syed Mohd Ashraf Andrabi, to serve the interests of the British. After careful consideration, my great-grandfather agreed to collaborate with British officials in Sinkiang. He was appointed a Political Agent on behalf of the imperial government, tasked with collecting taxes and other responsibilities. For his dedicated service, he was bestowed with the prestigious title of ‘Khan Bahadur’, a notable honor recognizing the loyalty and contributions of Muslims to the British Empire.
Khan Bahadur Haji Syed Ghulam Mohammad Gilani passed away well before the communist takeover in 1954. However, his sons – my grandfather Syed Syed Ahmed Gilani and his younger brother Syed Abdulha Gilani – faced the harsh reality of deportation in 1954, declared non-Chinese. Tragically, another younger brother, Syed Abdul Qadir, the Imam and Khateeb of the Grand Mosque of Kashgar, met a grim fate. He was killed on the spot for refusing to deliver pro-communist speeches and lies buried in the Khurmachi area, right on the border.
These events profoundly affected my grandfather, who yearned to return to Kashmir but was denied a visa due to disputed citizenship. His younger brother, however, chose a different path. Along with his family, sister Mehtab Khanam, and niece Mansoor Khanam, he relocated to Amman, Jordan, under the United Nations refugee plan. My grandfather, a man burdened by sadness, eventually passed away in Murree, and his body was brought to Pindi for burial.
Interestingly, my great-grandfather had purchased a small plot of land directly opposite the Yarkand House, within the premises of Khanqah Andrabia, for a mere Rs 18. This plot has since become our family’s sacred burial ground. It is here that cherished family members, including my late father, Dr. S.M. Amin Gilani, my dear uncle S.M. Ashraf, and my dear mother, are laid to rest. Also interred here are Abdul Hameed Butta, a devoted helper from Yarkand who served our family, and the driver of our horse cart, bearing Srinagar Municipality number 7.
This house, and the stories it holds, serve as a powerful reminder of our family’s resilience, its triumphs, and its sacrifices across generations.
The writer is former Assistant Commissioner of Revenue Department.
