Syed Nissar H Gilani
August 15 marks the martyrdom of Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, a hero of Bangladesh’s independence. During my visit to his home, now a national museum, in March 1998 while on holiday in Dhaka, I felt a deep sense of sadness seeing a man of such towering personality assassinated by his own army personnel. Tragically, all his family members were brutally killed, except for Sheikh Hasina Wajed, the former Prime Minister, who might have met the same fate if she hadn’t been away. The ruthlessness of power politics is indeed a harsh reality, reminiscent of how kings have historically dealt with their own family members to consolidate power.
Take, for instance, Stalin’s tomb being demolished decades after his death – a stark example of the lust for power that transcends ideologies.
My host in Bangladesh, Mr. Masoom Iqbal, owner of a 5-star property and a veteran of the Mukti Bahini, was visibly upset about the killing of the so-called Bangabandhu. It’s striking how history can take unexpected turns, reflecting the grim realities of exploitation by leaders across different ideologies.
My trip to Bangladesh was enriching, and I had the opportunity to interact with people from all walks of life. I’m grateful to Mr. Zia, the then Deputy Commissioner of Dhaka, for hosting a dinner for my wife and me at his official residence. Dr. Sheikh Mahfuz, a brilliant medic, was an invaluable guide throughout our stay in Dhaka and Cox’s Bazar. We particularly enjoyed the local cuisine, including delicious fish and Rasgulla, a traditional sweet that Bengalis on both sides of the border delight in. Dr. Mahfuz’s uncle, residing in the posh Gulshan area of the city, hosted us with lovely sweets and fried fish that we savored throughout our stay in the capital and other towns.
During our travels to different locations, especially in Chittagong, we noticed residents having small mud pools where they would rear fish for consumption. It was fascinating to see the locals’ resourcefulness and connection to their environment. We were also pleased to discover the country’s cotton and pottery items, which were of superior quality compared to many other countries. Chittagong, the port city of Bangladesh, is also home to some remarkable wildlife, including a special type of tortoise aged more than 250 years, with a striking red coloration on their shells, a true marvel of nature.
I found Bangladeshis to be hardworking, exemplified by the cycle rickshaws that dot the cityscape. A memorable experience was visiting the border village of Teknaf, a hub of barter trade dominated by the Rohingya community. A local vendor gifted me a beautifully crafted Quran stand made of sea shells, revealing a surprising connection to Kashmir through his mother, who hailed from Kishtwar. Despite facing discrimination in their own land, the Rohingyas’ hospitality was heartwarming.
We’re thankful to Mr. and Mrs. Masoom Iqbal for hosting us at Hotel Seagull in Cox’s Bazar. The pristine coastline and heavenly environment made it a truly unforgettable experience. Dhaka University, with its history of student uprisings, is a hub of intellectual fervor. Lalbagh Fort, built in 1678 by Mohammad Azam Shah, son of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, is another must-visit attraction that showcases the rich Dacca history, with its stunning Mughal architecture and serene surroundings. The Baitul Mukarram National Mosque, where I offered prayers several times, is an architectural marvel.
One of the notable institutions in Dhaka is the Dhaka Medical College Hospital, housed in a building that once served as the secretariat of the erstwhile government in the capital of West Pakistan, symbolizing the tumultuous history of the region. What struck me most about the hospital was its blood bank, where people from all walks of life and ages selflessly donate blood. The spirit of volunteerism and community service is truly inspiring, and the surplus of blood ensures its availability for those in need, a testament to the collective effort of the people.
However, the stark poverty in the city is a harsh reality that gives pause. Young children rummaging through filth and dirt is a heart-wrenching sight, reminiscent of many suburbs in Bombay and Calcutta. I hope the new government addresses this issue with urgency.
The writer is former Assistant Commissioner of Revenue Department.
