Syed Nissar H. Gilani
From the dawn of human history, clothing has served as our primary armor against the elements. Evolutionary biology and genetic evidence trace humanity’s first steps toward covering the body back some 170,000 years ago during an Ice Age, when early humans began utilizing animal skins and furs to trap heat. What began as crude, draped pelts eventually evolved through technological milestones like the invention of the eyed sewing needle 40,000 years ago, allowing for tailored garments that could withstand harsh climates. Across every civilization, the fundamental human drive has been the same: to protect the body and preserve dignity against environmental extremes.
Looking back into the historical heritage of Kashmir, multiple independent records demonstrate a long-standing culture of proficient weaving and proper attire. As documented in M.L. Kapur’s The History and Culture of Kashmir, historical accounts and archaeological findings from sites like Harvan reveal a thriving textile industry encompassing Kauseya (silks and muslins), Ksauma (linen from flax and hemp), and Kambala (woollen blankets and animal-wool garments). This legacy of fine craftsmanship expanded significantly during the medieval period. As detailed in Prof. Mohibul Hasan’s authoritative work, Kashmir Under the Sultans, particularly under the enlightened rule of Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin, the valley witnessed a flourishing economic and manufacturing golden age. Kashmiri artisans produced and exported renowned shawls, silks, and woolen cloth celebrated for warmth and durability across various countries, while merchants maintained extensive trade networks spanning Tibet, Central Asia, and India. Nowhere in these comprehensive historical chronicles is there any suggestion that the people of Kashmir lacked basic garments like trousers (yazar).
Yet, recent political discourse has occasionally featured sensationalized and baseless claims—alleging that Kashmiris, even as late as the mid-20th century, lacked trousers and had to beg or borrow them to look presentable. This distorted narrative collapses under the weight of historical documentation. Sir Walter Lawrence’s definitive colonial-era study, The Valley of Kashmir, provides meticulous descriptions of everyday local attire, noting how cultivators routinely wore traditional woolen gowns tucked into “drawers” that functioned as practical knickerbockers for daily life and travel.
Was historical Kashmir marked by material hardship? Undeniably. Centuries of heavy taxation, administrative exploitation, and geographic isolation often forced ordinary villagers to live modestly, where resources were scarce and a single woolen pheran paired with a kangri fire pot formed the core defense against brutal winters. But periodic economic exploitation and a lifestyle of rustic simplicity are a far cry from the total absence of fundamental clothing. The people of Kashmir have always clothed themselves with innate dignity, drawing upon a rich, centuries-old heritage of textile mastery.
History demands fidelity to documented facts rather than political theatrics. While humanity’s journey of clothing has evolved from prehistoric animal hides to modern ready-to-wear fashion, the self-respect and cultural identity of the Kashmiri people—anchored firmly in a rich history of local attire—remain entirely untouched by manufactured myths.
The author is a former civil servant. He can be reached at nisargilani57748@gmail.com
