Syed Nissar H. Gilani
A single glimpse of traditional Kashmiri Busraq is often enough to stir a deep sense of nostalgia, transporting one back to childhood days when sweet treats carried both unmatched authenticity and cultural reverence. Long before modern bakeries reshaped our palates, confectionery in the Valley was the exclusive domain of skilled local artisans known as the Kandurs (or Kandroos).
In those times, obtaining fine confections required intent and foresight. Affluent families planning major milestone celebrations—such as weddings, festive occasions, or the remarkable achievement of a student passing the Matriculation examination—would purchase pure desi ghee and hand it over to trusted Kandurs on special order. For regular batches, simple and honest ingredients were used, largely unadulterated by modern commercial shortcuts.
Among these treasured traditional baked goods, the Busraq held a place of pride. Featuring a rich, flaky shortbread-like core made from refined flour kneaded with ghee, Busraq is deep-fried to a crisp finish and enveloped in a hard, white crystallized sugar coating (chashni). Before the sugar layer sets, it is studded with chopped almonds, walnuts, cashews, and raisins. Specific regional pockets achieved historical fame for their master artisans—the Rajpora area in Pulwama and Old City (Shehr-i-Khas) neighborhoods like Naid Kadal, Khanqah-i-Moula, Aali Kadal, and Maharaj Gunj were particularly renowned for crafting the finest and most delicious varieties of Busraq in large copper cauldrons. Today, even modern bakeries display these distinct varieties, keeping the sweet craft alive for contemporary palates.
Another iconic classic, now witnessing a revival, is the Roath—a large, heavy, flat sweet disc baked to perfection in the clay tandoor by local bakers or fried at home. Characterized by a deep golden crust, the warm aroma of black cardamom (bari elaichi), and a surface sprinkled with poppy seeds (khus-khus) and sliced nuts, Roath occupies a cherished place in Kashmir’s culinary memory.
Having traveled across various regions, I have personally observed variations of Roath being prepared in different styles and shapes, generously mixed with diverse dry fruit spreads, almonds, and raisins (kishmish), across Central Asia and particularly in Iran, where it remains a favored street food delicacy. This striking resemblance highlights the deep historical and cultural conduits that linked Kashmir to the Silk Route, reflecting how shared culinary traditions traveled across regions while taking on distinct local identities.
Both Hindus and Muslims across the Valley would prepare or buy Roath and Busraq on various occasions, festivals, and family milestones, distributing them generously among friends, relatives, and well-wishers as a symbol of joy, affection, and shared blessing. Because Busraq was naturally preserved by its sugar shell and could endure long journeys without spoiling, it was frequently packed in traditional wicker baskets (kandur tokir) as a prized gift for extended family.
Unlike today, lavish spreads of imported starter platters, pastries, and modern packaged sweets were never part of authentic Kashmiri custom. Celebration was marked by simpler, deeply symbolic traditions. Primary among them was the Nabad Nout—a vessel-shaped, solid creation molded entirely out of crystallized sugar (nabad), taking its form from the classic earthen clay water pitcher (nout).
The Nabad Nout carried a unique social journey of its own. Often, these sugar vessels were gifted during celebrations and then passed along intact from one family to another as a gesture of goodwill, saving households unnecessary expense. When a Nabad Nout was finally broken down, its crystal sugar was used to brew Nabad Kehwa. Traditional Hakeems frequently prescribed this soothing, sweet infusion for children recovering from viral ailments, skin infections, and diseases like chickenpox (Wava Pate).
As modern tastes evolve, these traditional creations—crafted with skill, purity, and community spirit—remain a vital chapter of Kashmir’s rich heritage, reminding us of an era when sweetness was crafted with care and shared with open hearts.
The author is a former civil servant. He can be reached at nisargilani57748@gmail.com
